Indian Quarter, Durban

Indian Quarter in Durban

Speak to anyone who has lived in Durban for years about the 'Indian Quarter' and for a moment they will hesitate, for they know this part of town simply as 'Grey Street', which is even more confusing as its been re-named Dr Yusaf Dadoo Street and most of what was Indian Town, is now just as likely to house an African herbalist as it is a shop filled with spices and incense.

But two major Indian 'icons' in Durban, the Jumah Mosque and the Victoria Market, mean that where Alfred Britini Xuma, Monty Naicker and Yusaf Dadoo streets meet will always be known as the Indian Quarter, if only for its history.

Still, it remains a great part of town for a bargain, and the two-storey building that is the Victoria Street Market, with under cover parking below, is a top-to-bottom array of clothing, leather goods, jewellery and the odd Indian spice shop. But if you are looking for the Indian bed throws, cushion covers and lightweight blouses this is no longer the place to find them. You will have to seek out the odd shop secreted into the corner of one of the more modern malls like The Pavillion or Gateway.

However, if you are after atmosphere, then the Quarter is where its at, for the buildings have soaked up years of history, and the narrow little lanes and avenues are begging to be explored, particularly Madressa and Ajmeri arcades. And it remains one of the best places to pick up a bunny chow – a quarter loaf of bread, hollowed out and filled with a curry of some description, which will set you back anything from R10 to R50 depending on how big the bunny chow and what filling you choose.