Travel Reviews - The Basotho Experience in the Free State, South Africa - A Travel Review submitted by Francis Olufemi Leye

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THE "BASOTHO EXPERIENCE"

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South Africa » Travel Reviews » Aberdeen in the Eastern Cape

Submitted by: Francis Olufemi Leye - 15 October, 2007
Abuja FCT, Nigeria
North Coast DolphinsThe beginning of the month of March this year was quote memorable - yes, very memorable - very good and very bad. I just can’t forget that time in a rush! Having lost my family, my job was the only family I have got. There was nothing that worth my attention than being successful in my stock-broking career. Honestly, I was. That night that led to my “Basotho experience,” sleep wasn’t in the usual routine, as I had some awful nightmares. Finally, I work with an ill-omen I could hardly explain. Nevertheless, I got prepared in a jiffy and left for work. Everyone congratulated me as I entered the reception room of the office, telling me I had been promoted.

Thirty minutes later, I was invited to a toast at the office cafeteria, the toast which I handled myself. There everything started. As I lifted my glass and spoke, an unusual pain parried around my chest and pulled me down to the floor. I’d slum down there on the floor unconscious - the worst disgrace I’d received in twenty seven years of my life.

The next morning, I didn’t wait to tell myself that I fainted when I saw myself on the hospital bed. Soon, the doctor came in and checked me. “What’s the problem Doctor?” I inquired. Then he began to narrate the tale, mentioning technical terms I never understood. Finally, he told me I had a heart attack.

As a result, arrangements were made for me to be off work for two weeks to enable me regain health. My boss had compromise with the doctor’s cajole. It was the saddest thing happening to me, not the pains of being sick, but the one million dollar contract I was about to miss if I left office for two weeks.

Besides, I couldn’t figure who I could spend holiday with as the doctor told me to avoid the usual places. The thinking of these brought back memories of my family’s demise in a plane crash. I barely recalled I had a foster mother in South Africa, but could also hardly tell if she was still alive. Finally, I decided to visit her altogether. That day, I got home to prepare my little traveling stuffs, off to the airport I left and soon found myself at the other terminal in Johannesburg.

Foster mother was very pleased to see me after five full grown years, but I wasn’t that much happy as she was - I was missing job and money in the decisive hands of holiday and health. Foster mom made me comfortable and made sure her daughter, Von and I were always on outings to keep me from thinking about my condition.

My stay there was kind of a sad joy. I visited many places like Victoria Alfred Waterfronts, Tsitsikamma, Kalahari Wildlife, Ardmore Ceramic Art Studio, River Rafting etc but amongst all these places visited the aesthetics and ecstasies of visiting the Basotho Cultural Village cannot be equal. I attributed that to the cultural setting which was similar to my hometown and was more African then Western. In fact it had a certain je ne sais quoi.

My visit to the Basotho cultural village, which nestles at the foothills of the imposing Maluti Mountains of the Eastern Free State, gave me a deeper insight into the lifestyle of the South Sotho. I found out that in the village lies the culture and tradition of these people. We started our tour at the Khotla, which meant “the gathering place of men” Von my tutelage and tour guide, and I. I wouldn’t be allowed into the village without the permission of the village chief. With the help of Von, we meandered through some bush tracks and soon found ourselves in the village chief’s hut. Von did most of the talking and I supported her with much of the listening.

The chief’s acceptance and permission was followed with a warm hospitality- we were offered a traditional beer, then listened to the Rangoon and Lesiba and partook in the game of Maraba-raba. All these while, I’d forgotten completely that I was a stock-broker and needed to work as I became soaked in the tradition, savoring its comfort.

If you will be opportune, like me to visit Basotho cultural village, after observing those protocols at the chief’s place, you will then proceed into the homes of either his first, second or third wives while moving into the rhythm of the women grinding maize and sifting corn outside.

I was drowned as I admired the colorful dress and dances, passing where grandmother gathered the young girls to initiate them to folklore through riddles, fables and mystical tales. Then we went to the Ngaka, the traditional healer, who is believed to reveal one’s future by throwing some bones on the ground – it was a protocol a visitor like me shouldn’t bypass. Looking at the vibrant and dramatic huts at the Basotho Cultural village, they revealed to me that they were taking on the shape and styles from the 16th century. Decorated by women, I also found similar huts as we went through the countryside of the Eastern Free State.

Amongst these is a gallery, which showcases the work of local artists alongside a permanent photographic exhibition depicting the evolution of the village. The adjoining curio shop offers a wide variety of Basotho arts and crafts. These are marvelous breath-taking craftsmanship. An easy 2 hours walking trail that pass through typical sour grass field, skirts impressive sandstone cliffs and crosses clear mountain streams, has been incorporated as one of the achievements at the cultural village.
   
While we toured the Matlekery Herbal Trail, a social ecologist and a traditional healer specialized in locating the grasses, roots, herbs, leaves and bark used in rituals or in the preparations to cure ailments ranging from toothache to sexually transmitted disease, accompanied us. There were crushed leaves to relieve the pain of grief, chewed leaves spat into the wind to ward off lightening, ground roots for eye and ear infections.

Along the way, we visited persevered Bushman rock art depicting a giraffe and a lion in a kill, a rhino, and eland. I was personally lucky to have a sight of the rare-bearded vulture soaring on the heated horizons above.

When visiting Basotho cultural village and you have time, I recommend a riding tour on a sure footed Basotho pony. A four hour guided trip commences at the nearby Brakveli Farmhouse and takes in the most scenic spots of the Qwa-Qwa National Park. Here you will see games like, Oribi, grey rhebok, Springbuck, blesbok, eland, duiker, red hartebeest, mountain reedbuck and Burchell’s Zebra, as well as songs and dances.

Your visit can come to and end when you have bathed yourself in the sounds of accordion and drum with a traditional Basotho meal in the sandstone amphitheater. It is an unforgettable experience in unforgettable places.

All of these adventures just in a day took me into the beauty of nature and the artistry of man. With their beautiful candor, I was very hard to resist; I found it hard returning home, but I had to. You can try something out too, but please do me a favor, let me know when you are back.
Additional info / Related Pages:
Southern Sotho people of South Africa
South African Languages and Culture
The Eastern Free State

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